Saturday, June 30, 2007

Design Process Part IV: Size

Here is where I come to realization that I am no longer the size I was in high school. Having a baby changes your shape. Getting older means a slower metabolism. Sure, there are ways to counteract these things that are a part of life. The truth still remains. I am not going to belie the fact that I am no longer 18 years old.

If I want to have a garment that fits me well today, I am going to have to face reality. Reality = measuring tape.

Measure
Here is some guidance on how to measure properly. Your reference books will have this information as well. After carefully measuring myself, I went back to my sketches and jotted the information down.

If you're not knitting for yourself, Yarn Standards has standard measurements. If I write up this design into a pattern, I'll need to use the women's size chart for my measurement numbers. Good stuff.

Size

Determine Ease
When sizing sweaters, the fit is based on actual bust measurements, plus or minus ease. You need to determine what sort of fit you desire with your design. According to Vogue, here are standard definitions of fit with corresponding ease allowances
  • Very Close-Fitting = a very body-hugging effect. Ease Allowance = -2".
  • Close-Fitting = a body-contoured effect. Ease Allowance = +0-1".
  • Standard-Fitting = a body-skimming effect. Ease Allowance = +2".
  • Loose-Fitting = a straight-hanging effect. Ease Allowance = +4".
  • Oversized = a full, roomy effect. Ease Allowance = +6".

My actual bust measurement is 35.5" measured around the fullest part of the bust. For SexyBack, the intended fit is Close-Fitting. The above guidance says I should add 0-1 inches of ease. Let's add 0.5" so that we can round up to 36" and give myself a little wiggle room. I am not trying to knit a corset. My Finished Bust Measurement will be 36".

Upcoming: Design Process Part V: Compute

I promise you I'll explain the math as concisely and clearly as I humanly can. Grab your calculators!

4 comments:

tiennie said...

You're still in pretty fantastic shape even though you are no longer 18 and have had a baby!!

lomester said...

seriously loving these posts on your design process!

Kathy said...

Thanks. This is a great thing for me to work on. Keep up the great tutorials. I'll find the calculator.

honeybee33 said...

If you're working with cotton, don't forget to accommodate for the "growth"-factor! It might mean more negative-ease.

Can't wait to see the maths! ;~)

~ hb33, a big fan of the maths ~